4.7L Stroker Engine
 No, no... NO! ... Get yer mind outta the gutter! Not --THAT-- kind of a stroker... |
THIS kind! (And, YES... that was a gratuitous picture of a semi-naked woman. A very, very, VERY GIFTED semi-naked woman! ) |
So, whaddaya want a stroker fer
bunkie?
Before you set out to build a stroker... sit down
and make a list of equipment your XJ has now... and what kind of use
the motor will see.
For example: Ya have 3.55 gears, 31" tires and
drive it daily 300 miles one way to the Home For Unwed Mothers where you do
charity work
.
or
Maybe you are running 4.88's, 37" tires and only use it
rock-crawling
or
Maybe ya have 33's, 4.10's & do a lot of
towing.
(You get the picture...) Once ya have a basic list of things
that will affect what rpm range the engine will be living at, check one of the
tire / gear charts listed on the tech page & find out what rpms your motor
is going to be running and build accordingly. Rpm's are gonna affect everything
from cam choice to engine longevity so plan accordingly.
My 4.7L Stroker's Operating
Conditions:
I am building this engine for my current daily
driver (1990 XJ w/ 220k miles) which will see fewer street miles later but for
time being will remain my commute/tow rig. I will be running 4.88:1 gears, 35"
T'birds, daily highway use w/ occasional towing and a highway rpm of about
2750-3000 rpms. An appropriate cam was selected & some extra $$$ sunk into
having the lower end assembled and spin balanced where a 'low buck' / lower rpm
motor could get away w/ balancing the piston & rod assemblies individually
or not at all. (Good idea to at least do the assemblies... cheap
insurance.)
My Goals:
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My 4.7L Stroker Engine Parts List
Part Description & any associated machine work for part. |
Part Number |
Item Cost |
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| 1990 4.0L short-block. | Discarded from a buddy's motor swap. | Free! Thanks Martin & Jerry! |
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| 19?? 258 Crankshaft from a rusty bucket o bolts motor. | No idea... I pulled from a rustbucket motor in my parts pile... | Already had this in the ol' parts pile! | |||||||||
| Block
machine work: Vatted, new freeze plugs, new cam bearings, main alignment
checked, cylinders bored .060 over, decked .010, assembled and
balanced. Piston machine work: 4.0L Sealed Power 677P .060 pistons & rings with 1.30 mm removed from dishes to achieve ~9.5:1 final C.R. Crank machine work: Vatted, turned .030 / .010, snout trimmed for balancer fitment and balanced. Throttle Body & Spacer machine work:Spacer and throttle body bored out to match gasket size below butterfly. |
All machine work done by Terry Walters Precision Engines in Roanoke, VA. | About $1700 total for ALL machine work on block, crank & head. | |||||||||
| 258 rods (reconditioned from eBay) | $45 Shipped |
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4.0L Mopar Performance inline 6 HV oil
pump  |
P4529241 | $ 60.06 | |||||||||
| 4.0L inline 6 factory 1-piece oil pan gasket | 53007568 | $23.80 | |||||||||
| Mopar Performance Cam & Lifters 256 dur. / .450 lift / 40 duration / 108 centerline  |
P4529230 | $134.00 shipped from Summit Racing. |
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| Roller Timing Chain (NAPA N.O.S. from eBay) |
#10-3085 | $32.00 Shipped |
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| 4.0L inline 6 HEAD
GASKET .043" thick Mopar Performance/Victor Reinz |
P4529242 | $20.16 | |||||||||
| 1993 HO inline 6 cylinder head w/ Valve cover & head bolts Head machine work:Pressure checked for cracks, ported & polished to gasket, surface planed flat w/ minimum material removal, 3-angle valve job plus new oem springs, retainers & locks. Try East Coast Auto Source for some excellent prices on Jeep 4.0L parts! |
Casting #7120 | $93.01 | |||||||||
| Modified oil pan (* - Clearanced with a B.F.H. for the oil pump.) | |||||||||||
| 4.0L inline 6 valve seal pkg. (12 ea) | P4529240 | $ 9.06 | |||||||||
| 4.0L inline 6 Mopar Performance pushrod pkg (12ea) | P4529675 | $ 8.64 | |||||||||
| Banks Torque Tube
Header Thanks to D.C. of DC4WD for the smokin' deal!  |
$365.00 DC4WD |
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| 4.0L Mopar Performance inline 6 manifold attaching package | P4529680 | $27.52 | |||||||||
| 4.0L inline 6 intake / exhaust
gasket * Note - Be sure to get a gasket that matches the year of your head! Latest HO heads have SMALLER ports! |
53010238 | $10.80 | |||||||||
| 2002 TJ equal length
intake Shown w/ linkage mounts & TJ fuel rail which was removed. Reuse Renix fuel rail w/ minor mods.  Another eBay score! |
P/N 4854197AA (1999-2002) | $77.00 |
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| HO throttle valve (throttle body) w/
MAP on flange. Bored out to 62mm. (Bought a mid 90's HO intake to get throttle body & cable brackets.) Another eBay score! |
$25 after reselling intake it was sittin on! | ||||||||||
62MM Throttle valve spacer w/
hardware. L&B RACINGeBay seller name: res069tu |
$39.50 SHIPPED |
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|
Ford Motor Sports # F1TE-D5A |
$98.01 SHIPPED |
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| 4.0L inline 6 fuel injector o-rings
set. (These are also available from AutoZone for a few $ less.) |
#83503637 | $13.00 | |||||||||
| 4.0L inline 6 oil filter mount
o-rings The following are the part numbers & dealer item description for Renix (metric) oil filter mount o-rings:
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* Depends on HO or non HO block. Mounts have different mounting bolt. | $10.00 | |||||||||
| Magnetic oil pan drain plug | AutoZone | $1.69 + tax | |||||||||
| Mopar Performance ECU (Renix XJ's -
87-90 ) NOTE! - KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR THESE ECU's!!! They are -not- marked P4529334 on the ECU; that is only the Mopar Performance part number! Actual Bendix computer is #P4532129 as marked on the ECU itself! |
Mopar Performance # P4529334 Bendix # P4532129 |
260.00 shipped Thanks Bill! |
|
Stroker Engine Assembly Pics
 Right after figuring out how to get it onto the engine stand without a hoist... the first thing was to give it a fresh coat of Mopar Black paint. MMmmmmmm! Paint fumes! |
 Shot of the bore showing Sealed Power 677P .060 over pistons. Pistons were dished 1.30 mm deeper prior to assembly in order to get the compression below 10:1. |
  You need to assemble the pick-up tube to the pump. I gently tapped it into place with a rubber mallet & a Crescent wrench set on the flange. First put the pick-up tube in the freezer and GENTLY heat the oil pump with a propane torch set on LOW heat. A few taps (with a little grease) and it went right in. |
 Installing the Mopar Performance HV oil pump. (Pick-up tube was not installed in this test fit pic.) |
 Oil pan WILL need to be clearanced here with a ball-peen hammer to allow enough room in pan for oversized Hi-Volume pump. Don't get carried away... as ya can bust the pan where this plate is welded in if you're not careful! |
 Same area of oil pan shown from outside. Again... Don't get carried away with the hammer!!! When done, pan should set flat against bottom of block all along both sides of pan when centered up with a couple of pan bolts. |
 Installing the Mopar Performance camshaft. Be sure to oil up the cam with the included lube! |
 Installing the roller timing chain. Be sure to align the timing marks as shown. |
 Make sure to install the oil slinger before putting timing cover on! |
Installing timing cover into shortblock and new timing cover oil seal. |
| Buttoning up the bottom-end with "modified" oil pan and a new 1-piece gasket. | Flip the block over and drop those well lubed lifters into their bores. After *** a little head-work (LINK HERE) ***, it was time to put the head onto the block. Be Carefull! Do not trash the gasket! Use a couple of head bolts to line it up. |
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Obviously, there are a heckuva lot of pics leftt to be posted... hang in there! My BRAND NEW Western Digital 250GB hard drive committed suicide last fall while consolidating several drives including the one that had many of my website articles & pics. I've found a site that shows how to attempt to 'repair' the drive long enough to transfer files out... we'll see how that goes. Western Digital graciously refused to honor the warranty but did send me to a 'partner' that quoted $2,000 to retrieve my data. |
 Now we're talkin'! It's offficially a 'long block'! Head is on & torqued down. Lifters and pushrods are in and rockers are installed. Still need to button down the oil pan after installing the timing cover. |
Old parts discarded from 4.7L Stroker build-up (Link to pics here.). |
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Last... but not least... "Huh?" That means
to
Now it's time to answer your remaining questions about
4.0L based strokers by visiting the motherlode of Jeep stroker engine info at:
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The Yahoo Strokers Group!
If you have pics of your own repairs or can suggest other methods - please contribute your ideas (and pictures) to this article!
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Revised on:
May 3rd, 2007 |
