Adding on some electrical accessories and don't want a rat's nest running to your existing fuse box? Or maybe your rat's nest is already so bad that the rats left from beneath your dash a long time ago... Either way, score yourself an auxilliary fuse box from your local auto parts store and you'll be back in business.

What you'll need:

First get some heavy gage stranded (NOT solid!) fuel / oil exposure rated wire & the usual tools & connectors.

ATC fuse block - about $7.00 at your local auto parts store...

Buss' brand ATC / ATO fuse block.
These are available for 4 / 6 / 8 or more fuses. Number of fuses the block has determines TOTAL current rating for block. Number of fuses varies - typically from 4 to 8 are available.

Generic breakers (resets itself) are available rated for low to moderate load use.

Automotive breakers - use inline for main supply to fuse block.
* - Switch controlled solenoids are for hi-load use: Stinger SR80 solenoid.

Fuses. (Well, duh.)

Wire recommendation:

4 Fuse block 12 ga. wire
6 fuse block 10 ga. wire
8 fuse block -8 ga. wire


I use mine to power my halogen back up lights, rack mount lights, radio equipment & stereo amp. Pics are pretty much self-explanatory... I just mounted it on the passenger side fenderwell just in front of the firewall. The white metal was put over top of it to keep water runoff from drenching it but there are 'water proof' fuse boxes with covers out there as well. I used some random silicone sealer I had laying around to seal that to the fender as well. (Metal shield made a nifty place to write down what fuse does what and what size fuse it takes.)

Once you decide on a mounting location you'll need decide on how you want to power it: I do NOT recommend that you run it always 'hot' but instead run it 'switched' off of a relay. If you want to run it 'hot' then you need to run a power feed to the fuse box from the battery making sure it's routed securely away from any means of being damaged. Same applies to 'switched' except you'll be feeding it from either a relay or switched power source. Keep in mind that running it on a 'switched' source means you'll be limited to the TOTAL current capacity of your source!!! You can NOT run 60amps of accessories from that 10 amp fuse box terminal!!! If you want to run a 'switched' source, grab yourself a constant duty solenoid, like the Stinger SR80, and feed the power to the box from that. I scored one off of ebay for $19.95 but any decent auto audio shop should have these. These solenoids are nothing more than high current, constant duty relays and can handle the total max load of this type fuse box (60amps for this fuse box).

If you have pics of your own repairs or can suggest other methods - please contribute your ideas (and pictures) to this article!

Revised on: October 10, 2006

Tech Index.

Home Page.

Bookmark this website!


Translate this webpage to any language supported by Google Translate!

Search this website or the web for related information!